Houmt Souk, the capital of Djerba
Around Dar Ines — Midoun, island of Djerba
Houmt Souk is Djerba’s main town, its market and historic heart, about twenty minutes from the villa. People come for the souks, the old caravanserais, the fishing port and the Spanish fort watching over the coast. Half a day is enough to see it; a market morning is the best time.
The medina and the souks
The centre of Houmt Souk is a whitewashed medina of narrow lanes punctuated by shaded squares. The souks follow one another: the covered souk with its stalls of spices and dates, the jewellers working gold and silver, the sellers of pottery, fabrics, basketry and leather.
The traditional market days are Monday and Thursday, when the bustle is at its height. Prices are negotiated with a smile — it is expected and part of the game. For an authentic souvenir, look for Guellala pottery and Djerban weaving.
The fondouks
Houmt Souk keeps several fondouks, the old caravanserais where merchants lodged with their animals and goods around an inner courtyard. Several have been restored as boutique hotels or cafés: you can step in for a mint tea and see the arcaded galleries.
Place Hedi Chaker and Place Farhat Hached, with their café terraces, are the right spots for a break in the heart of town.
The port and Borj El Kebir
Towards the sea, the fishing port sets the tone: colourful boats, nets drying, and the famous terracotta jars (“gargoulettes”) lined up by the hundred, which fishermen have used since antiquity to catch octopus. Early in the morning, the fish auction is a show in itself.
Close by, Borj El Kebir — the Ghazi Mustapha fort — has dominated the shore since the 15th century. Its ramparts can be visited and give a fine view over the port and the sea.
Eating in Houmt Souk
The town is known for fish: grilled, in couscous or in soup, with harissa and mechouia salad. The restaurants around the port and the medina serve the catch of the day, often chosen at the stall before it is cooked.
The museum of popular arts and traditions, housed in a former zaouia, rounds off the visit for those who want to understand the island’s costumes, jewellery and traditional crafts.
Getting there from the villa
Allow about twenty minutes by car from Dar Ines. Parking is easy on the edge of the medina; the centre is explored on foot. Midoun market, on Fridays, is the island’s other great market gathering, just a few minutes from the villa.